Wednesday, January 20, 2010

#8 - Gedoog

Amsterdam is famous for a lot of things, including tulips, herring, art, Anne Frank, Heineken – and marijuana and prostitution. The more I talk to Dutch people, I learn more and more about their concept of “gedoog”.

The word is uniquely Dutch and does not easily translate to English, but the word often tossed around is “tolerance”. The Dutch have a live and let live attitude to life. If something doesn’t hurt anyone, it’s generally considered ok, even if officially illegal. If something is illegal for many years and the problem doesn’t go away, its becomes tolerated and regulated.

Marijuana is the most common example that people think of. It’s technically illegal in Amsterdam, but the authorities long ago decided they couldn’t legislate it away. Whether legal or not, people would be smoking pot regardless. While harder drugs are strictly illegal, the rule is to “tolerate” the sale and use of small amounts of marijuana. It’s sold all over the city at coffeeshops, which are allowed to sell a certain amount per person per day. Of course growing it and selling mass quantities is illegal, but everyone looks the other way assuming that it doesn’t get out of hand. As my friend Rick Steves likes to say (see a clip to his video below), the Dutch have made the choice between allowing something or building more prisons, and allowing it has worked rather well. A recent study says that only 22% of Dutch have tried marijuana, which is half the percentage in the US. Drug-related deaths are also 16 times more common in the US (per capital) than in the Netherlands.

For more on coffeeshops, check out this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RjKw-C0VGU&feature=SeriesPlayList&p=B009F20AC021B66E

Coffeeshop:


Prostitution is another area Amsterdam is famous for. Of course, it happens in every city in the world, including Portland and Seattle and Salt Lake City and wherever else people live. Amsterdam is most famous for its red-light district. As you can see in the picture below, window-shopping is taken to new heights in Amsterdam. It’s a bit unnerving the first time you walk by the windows, but it’s all completely regulated and legal here. In fact, prostitution is legal in many European countries. You see red light windows in Belgium and Germany as well, and there are also red light districts in Paris and London (or Aurora Avenue in Seattle or Interstate Avenue in Portland!). There are pros and cons of course, as with everything. On one hand, the proponents point out that legalized prostitution eliminates pimps and underground criminals involved in the sex trade, gives the women a choice of which customers to accept, and gives them rights as legally recognized workers. Those against say that it leads to human trafficking, especially from Eastern Europe and Northern Africa, which is probably true to a small extent. The city is attempting to diversify the red light district, including limiting the number of windows to 300. Regardless, the world’s oldest profession will still be practiced here for awhile I’m sure. Apparently €50 is all it takes, for those interested ….



Those are the two famous cases, but there’s a few others that I find interesting too. A park on the outskirts of Amsterdam was known as a place where gay men hooked up in the bushes (which of course, happens to be right near my office – obviously PwC only locates in the best parts of town). The local city council was faced with complaints about the activity. Recognizing that the activity has gone on for years and that it couldn’t really be stopped, under the policy of “gedoog” signs were erected (no pun intended) to warn passerby that this sort of thing might be going on. The idea is again the same: it’s not hurting anyone, and we can’t stop it, so we’ll allow it if it’s confined to certain areas and doesn’t hurt others. To me this typifies the Dutch way of dealing with social issues under this live and let live mentality. In the US these people would probably be locked up and registered as sex offenders. Not saying this is the kind of thing I want to see everyday (and luckily, I have not!), but I find the proposed solution a fascinating cultural difference. These are the things you notice living in a new place.

Finally, something you see in Amsterdam that I find very amusing, and that you’d never see in the US. Faced with the problem of people peeing in alleyways and canals after a night on the town, the government decided to do something about it. Now in key nightlife areas of the city, you’ll find portable urinals set up on Thursday, Friday, Saturday night. It seems strange and little disgusting (although I can attest that it’s a godsend on a night of bicycle bar-hopping!), but again a very practical solution (for guys anyway – I love the male bathroom deal on the side). The alternative is what you find in places like Belltown – people peeing in alleys and bushes and becoming a nuisance to the neighborhood.



All of the so-called social ills described above happen in every country in the world. The Dutch have a unique "live and let live" mentality. Believe it or not, most of the people here tend to live a fairly conservative lifestyle. Most Dutch people I've met would never step foot inside a coffeeshop and the thought of patronizing a prostitute is as unthinkable to them as it is to me. They live within their means (flashy cars and designer bags are frowned upon) and place a focus on the family. Despite their own way of life, they allow others to do what they want as long as no one is hurt. It's refreshing to see people secure enough in their own well being that they don't feel the need to focus their attention on legislating "morality" on others.

Monday, January 11, 2010

#7 - 2009 Recap

2009 was a good year; better than many. Time for a short recap.

After surviving Snowmageddon 2008, I had a busy Janauary-March as usual. This year I worked on a couple of very large and challenging projects, but both ended up being great learning experiences. Time really flew by. During this time, I had no clue what I’d be doing in six months. I was hoping for an international transfer, and things were looking likely for 2-years in Tokyo. Wasn’t my first choice, but the more I thought about it the more exciting it sounded. Europe’s cool, but Asia is really cool too. I wanted to experience a new culture, and Japan would be an exciting challenge. While this dragged on, I wrapped up busy season and then it was time to travel.

Some friends that I met on a previous trip to Egypt graciously showed me around Toronto for a long weekend. Toronto is a great city – very international, lots of things to see, and great nightlife, restaurants, etc. I don’t know if I could survive the winters, but otherwise could easily stay a couple years there. Only a week after returning to Seattle, it was time to head off to Rome for a week. I found a cheap ticket that I felt would have been a travesty not to buy, so I booked a 6-day trip to Rome on a whim. Luckily, Jill always wanted to see Rome so I had some company. Despite having been to Europe several times, I hadn’t made it to Italy yet. It was awesome – the perfect mix of sightseeing, relaxing, partying, eating, and just getting away. It was a good amount of time to see the whole city without being rushed. Plus, we survived Naples with all of our belongings intact!

Got back into hiking in June, and climbed Mt. Si several times, as well as finally trying some new hikes closer to Mt. Rainier and Stevens Pass. In late June I got the call I had been waiting a couple years for – I was moving to Amsterdam! Japan didn’t have a need anymore, so “unfortunately” I would have to accept my original first choice of Amsterdam. Bummer. I also went to my 10-yr reunion in June and was able to reconnect with a few people, but also, a lot of people didn’t show up which was a bit disappointing.

It’s funny how when you are moving, you suddenly feel like you have a million things you wanted to do, never did, and now’s your last chance. This was probably the best summer ever in Seattle. Highlights included seeing Seafair from a boat in the middle of Lake Washington (thanks Jacobsen family for always being out of town at the best of times and letting us borrow your toys!), fireworks over Lake Union on July 4th, trying all the restaurants I never made it to, one last trip to Vancouver BC, and Went to Maui for about a week with several buddies also; it was great to be able to fit in one last trip with friends before heading over to Europe.

Summer was coming to a close, so that meant lots of packing, international phone calls, and annoying to-dos prior to moving. Even when your company handles everything, including the moving, it’s still very stressful. Packing up and moving out of my place was a strange experience – living there for 4 years and it being my first home. Luckily I was able to find renters right away.

Labor Day weekend meant one thing: bachelor party! After only 7 years of dating, my brother and his (then) fiancĂ©e finally got married. For the bachelor party we rented a house in Sunriver, OR for the weekend. I think the Bend Costco’s beer sales doubled that weekend, as our livers could attest (not to mention the friend we made from the house next door). I also don’t think I can ever eat a Costco hot dog or Kettle Chips again. The wedding was a week after. Great ceremony, survived the best man speech, and had a great hangover the next day for my own going away party. Just about everyone was able to make it, which was great.

You can read more about the move and the trip to Turkey in previous posts. Turkey was amazing and my favorite place by far was the Cappadocia region in the center of the country. Amazing scenery, great hiking, and cool towns. The first few months in Amsterdam I focused on settling in and adjusting to a new country that’s very similar, but in many ways different than my own. Learning a new job, a new city, and new country is not easy, but I’m happy to say that I’m feeling more settled as we enter 2010. I was able to go back to the US for Christmas, and it was a great chance to see family and friends, and enjoy the land of bottomless fries, free refills, good TV, and cheap shopping (relatively speaking).

Here's some things I'm looking forward to in 2010:
- Dubai in late January
- Paris in June
- Seeing lots of visitors (hint, hint)
- World Cup
- Oktoberfest!
- Seeing if the Cougs can make it out of the cellar of the Pac-10
- Going to a European Soccer Game
- Hopefully seeing the US Soccer team play Holland in March
- Visits home in July and December
- Being in Amsterdam during Summer

Happy (late) New Year everyone, and here’s to a great 2010!

A few pictures of Amsterdam in early January:

Views near the Amstel River:




Canal Houses:


Frozen Canal, with houseboats: